Outer Hebrides Trip Report

 

19th – 26th July 2008

 

 

Leader:

 

Stephen Duffield

 

Participants:

 

Gill Catchpole and Anthea Reynolds

 

Sites:

 

North Uist: Berneray; Balranald; Committee Road; Loch Euport; Griminish; Lochmaddy and Strome / Loch Portain.

 

Benbecula: Loch Mor / Loch Fada; Coot Loch

 

South Uist: Loch Eynort; Loch Druidibeg; Ardvule; South Ford; Ardivachar; Loch Bee; South Glendale; Smerclate.

 

Mingulay.

 

 

 

Daily dairy:

 

19th July:  After dropping the bags off at the guesthouse in Liniclate, Benbecula we took a quick look round to see what we could catch up with before dinner. We headed to the east side of the island first, calling in at Peter’s Port where we saw a fine stag Red Deer and a handful of Rock Pipits strutting round the rocks. Next we drove west to a collection of excellent lochs lying along the south-west side where we found Shoveler, Wigeon, Teal, Tufted Duck, Little Grebe, Coot and a female Hen Harrier, as well as a variety of common waders. After the brief tour we settled down to dinner at the Dark Island Hotel.

 

20th July: The first full day proved to be very eventful and one of the best of the whole trip. We headed out around 9 am on a roughly circular route of North Uist. On route to Balranald we spotted a Short-eared Owl, 2 Hen Harriers and a couple of Kestrels before arriving at this excellent reserve, lying on the west side of the island. We headed out in lovely weather for a walk around Aird an Runair and stopped to scan a number of waders on the beach and get views of the Twite, fluttering around. The usual waders were present including Dunlin, Turnstone, Ringed Plover and Sanderling although a small ‘peep’ which we initially thought from its size a structure to be a Little Stint proved to be the much rarer Semipalmated Sandpiper. (This will be the 9th for the Outer Hebrides and around the 22nd for Scotland if accepted. These figures hide the fact that it is actually only the second year that one has been found in the Outer Hebrides as 8 were found during an influx caused by north-westerly gales in September1999). After pondering over the bird for a while we continued on our walk getting excellent views of 2 Otters playing together and fishing for around an hour on the east side of the headland. After Balranald we headed back over the Committee Road where we spotted a Greenshank at the northern end and around the north coast to the Loch Portain area. Here we had good views of a Peregrine Falcon over head, a Golden Eagle which was carrying a large bird (possibly a goose) and a Red-throated Diver bathing. Heading back south we saw an Arctic Skua over the moor close to Lochmaddy and 2 Red-throated Divers in flight on Benbecula. Dinner was at the Dark Island again.

 

21st July: A slightly earlier start today at 8 am. We headed south onto South Uist calling at Druidibeg National Nature Reserve. As we drove along the south edge of the loch we had excellent views of an Osprey as it hovered and dived for fish before heading off west, towards the machair. Whilst we were watching the Osprey, three divers flew off the loch but as we were slightly distracted by the performance going on in front of us we didn’t get good enough views to say whether the birds were Black or Red-throated Divers. After the Osprey had moved on we had at least 5 different Red-throated Divers in flight and heard a young Sparrowhawk calling from a small, wooded island. Heading back to the main road we spotted a large bird of prey perched on a mound. Further investigation revealed the bird to be a fine Golden Eagle which we decided to approach a little closer. On approach we saw the bird being attacked by first a Herring Gull, 3 different Kestrels and finally a ringtail Hen Harrier. At the time the harrier was having a good go we were approximately 300 metres away and getting stunning views through the telescope. The eagle finally had enough and launched itself at the harrier and headed out across the moor, dropping out of site some distance away. Following this was going to be pretty difficult. We called in next at Loch Eynort where we saw a number of Common Seals with pups and an Otter fishing just off the car park. We had good views of the Otter for around 20 minutes before it swam out of site. Leaving the car park we walked through Archie’s wooded garden along a good path for around ½ a mile and saw a good variety of birds including up to 8 Red-throated Divers, Razorbills, Black Guillemots, 3+ Siskin and a stunning Lesser Redpoll. We also saw 3 Hen Harriers whilst watching the rest of the action. We retired to Ardvule for lunch as the weather was closing in but this didn’t stop the action. On arrival we had a Peregrine Falcon hunting the birds along the beach. The showers came and went before the rain finally settled in but before this we stopped at Peninerine where we spotted a superb summer plumage Great Northern Diver and a moulting male Goosander. As the weather deteriorated we birded from the car and saw 5 summer plumage Bar-tailed Godwits at Ardivachar, amongst the non-breeding birds and a further 3 Otters fishing in North Bay. They performed for around an hour on the rising tide when we decided to move on; another excellent day.

 

22nd July: An early start today so that we could get the ferry across to Barra and the boat to Mingulay. On route we had a Short-eared Owl at the southern end of South Uist and a variety of seabirds on the crossing of the Sound of Barra including Black Guillemots, Razorbill and a Guillemot with attendant youngster. Other species included Gannet, Kittiwake and a couple of Arctic Terns around a cluster of small islands covered in moulting Eiders and Grey Seals. We drove around the west side of Barra to meet the boat at Castle Bay from where we sailed south. Although the weather was rather murky we had excellent views of Manx Shearwaters and Fulmars around the boat and a single Storm Petrel that lingered in the wake for a while. As we reached Mingulay we were greeted with a flock of Puffins sat on the sea and a mass of wheeling Fulmars. Unfortunately the cliffs and hill tops were shrouded in mist so the views were limited but we did get excellent views of Puffins coming and going to their burrows on the north side of the bay where we landed. We found a locally bred juvenile Sedge Warbler in a patch of reeds and Hebridean Wrens scurried amongst the old ruins in the village. Grey Seals played amongst the surf and Gill spotted a couple of small Sea Holly plants in a rather bare area. This is the only site for this coastal species in the whole of the Outer Hebrides. On the return leg the sea was with us and made for a more pleasant journey. We saw similar species as on the way out including 4 species of auks whilst Steve also managed to spot a single Purple Sandpiper amongst a small flock of Turnstone on Sandray that flushed as the boat passed close by. We had a little amount of spare time before the ferry left for Eriskay so we visited Eoligarry. The views were superb and the flower meadows were out-standing with lovely lush fields full of colour and the vibrant pinks of Pyramidal Orchid.

 

23rd July: This morning we headed north to the islands of Berneray and had excellent views of a male Merlin on the way there at the road side at Clachan na Luib. We stopped just before the causeway across to the island to look at a small stream with masses of spraints and signs that Otters were using the area to clean and bath themselves. Once on Berneray we explored the north end first before moving on to the machair lying to the south. As we were about to turn onto the road leading to the machair Anthea spotted a couple of raptors circling; these turned out to be a Buzzard and a Golden Eagle. Seeing the two together allowed us an excellent size comparison and helped us to pick out details in the structure that would help separate a lone bird, if seen. As we drove onto the machair we had a Corn Bunting fly off from the fence at the road side. The machair was stunning with a superb display of typical coastal flowers for these parts and some late flowering Early Marsh Orchid, of the variety coccinea. We headed off to Lochmaddy for lunch and looked for sea eagles with no luck on the hills lying to the south of the harbour here. As we drove round the southern edge of North Uist we spotted two Golden Eagles over a hill lying north of the road. One of these birds flew towards us before quickly dropping to the ground, out of sight; the other bird treated us to a couple of minutes of display flight. 5 Greenshank were present in the creek south of us whilst we were watching the eagles and a Short-eared Owl was seen shortly after as it hunted low over the moor. We turned on to the Committee Road where on a brief stop we spotted another Golden Eagle drop to the ground where it joined another bird already stood on a small mound on the sky-line. 4 Golden Eagles in ½ an hour was not a bad way to start the afternoon! We turned down to Griminish pier and had a walk in this lovely area for around 40 minutes or so. Whilst here we saw 3 Red-throated Divers and had a brief look at a male Hen Harrier. Our last stop took is to Balranald. A Whooper Swan was seen on Loch na Reavel and a pair with 6 cygnets were on Loch Scaraidh. Balranald again came up trumps with a female Merlin, a distant Short-eared Owl, a ringtail Hen Harrier and 13 Black-tailed Godwits. We also saw another Otter, this time fishing in Loch nam Feithean at close range. Dinner at the Carinish Inn rounding off another excellent day.

 

24th July: This morning we headed to the south end of South Uist to South Glendale. On route we had Short-eared Owl and Hen Harrier plus a juvenile Cuckoo with attendant Meadow Pipit at Snishival. South Glendale was very productive with two family parties of Stonechats, a family of Whitethroats and a singing Grasshopper Warbler. We also had a Hen Harrier and perched Peregrine Falcon. At the bottom end of the valley we had excellent scope views of 3 summer plumage Black-throated Divers, completing our diver trio. Once we had finished here we headed back west to Smerclate getting good views of two displaying Sedge Warblers, 2 Whooper Swans and 2 Swifts. We also had a juvenile Hen Harrier hunting over the coastal fields here and showing well. We stopped at Kildonan Cafι for lunch before returning to Ardvule although this time we walked out to the point. At the point we spotted Manx Shearwaters passing by plus at least one Storm Petrel. Heading north we stopped at various localities and managed a Hen Harrier almost in the car at Carnan, 2 Black-tailed Godwits on Loch Mor, Benbecula and a selection of wildfowl on Coot Loch. The latter site held, of course Coot plus Teal, Wigeon and Gadwall amongst others. The extra bird species today took our total to 99.

 

25th July:  We luckily latched on to a party that had chartered a fishing boat to do some monitoring work on the Monachs and were looking forward to this unusual bonus trip; but unfortunately it wasn’t to be. We headed out around 10 am from Griminish Pier in North Uist in a small fishing boat and soon encountered quite rough seas off Griminish Point. Waves were constantly splashing over the boat and we were all getting a little damp when the skipper made the call that it was best to turn around as we had a long way to go and it was set to get worse. Although it was obviously disappointing the chance of actually seeing anything was very limited and we reluctantly headed back to port. We did see a handful of Manx Shearwaters and both Shag and Cormorants perched side by side before heading back to the pier at Griminish. We headed for lunch at Loch Euport before taking a look at Lochmaddy for the elusive sea eagles that unfortunately still eluded us. We tried another of the traditional Snowy Owl sites at Sollas where we had a pleasant stroll around the machair although there was no sign of the owl. We did get excellent views of a male Hen Harrier nearby at Malaclate that was hunting along the roadside before our final shot at Snowy. Our final walk around Aird an Runair produced an array of waders including Sanderling, Dunlin, Turnstone and Ringed Plover plus an assortment of gulls and passerines including Corn Bunting. As hard as we tried Snowy was nowhere to be found although signs were there that it had been present as we located a large pellet from the female that had used the shelter of a rock here to roost by the previous month. A quiet end to what was other wise a fabulous week.

 

26th July: Gill left on the 08:50 flight to Glasgow although before she went we managed a final Short-eared Owl. Anthea took a morning ferry across to Barra from Eriskay and also connected with another Short-eared Owl before leaving. A total of 99 species of birds were either seen or heard during the week.

 

 

Species list:

 

1.  1. Red-throated Diver – regular sightings
2. Black-throated Diver – three in summer plumage off South Glendale
3. Great Northern Diver – one in summer plumage at Peninerine
4. Little Grebe - common
5. Northern Fulmar – Sound of Barra, Mingulay and Ardvule
6. Manx Shearwater – common off-shore, seen close on boat to Mingulay
7. Storm Petrel – one from Mingulay boat and one or two off Ardvule
8. Northern Gannet – common off-shore
9. Cormorant - common
10. European Shag - common
11. Grey Heron - common
12. Mute Swan - common
13. Whooper Swan – pair with 6 cygnets at Balranald, 2 Smerlcate, 1 Ardvule
14. Greylag Goose - common
15. Shelduck – common, family parties seen
16. Mallard - common
17. Gadwall – one on Coot Loch
18. Northern Shoveler – seen at a couple of sites
19. Eurasion Wigeon – seen at a couple of sites with young
20. Common Teal – a handful seen
21. Tufted Duck - common
22. Eider – common
23. Goosander – moulting male seen at Peninerine
24. Red-breasted Merganser – common, female with young on Howmore River
25. Osprey – seen well at Druidibeg
26. Golden Eagle – seen on three dates with 5 on 23rd
27. Hen Harrier – seen on 6 out of 7 days with at least 5 on 24th
28. Common Buzzard - common
29. Sparrowhawk – heard calling at Druidibeg
30. Common Kestrel seen on 5 dates
31. Merlin – three birds seen
32. Peregrine Falcon – three birds seen
33. Corncrake – 2 heard at Balranald, also heard at a couple of other sites
34. Common Moorhen – Coot Loch and Balranald
35. Common Coot – Coot Loch
36. Oystercatcher - common
37. Ringed Plover - common
38. Golden Plover – seen on four dates
39. Lapwing - common
40. Sanderling – seen on three dates, common
41. Purple Sandpiper – one (Steve) from boat on Sandray, returning from Mingulay
42. Turnstone – seen on two dates
43. Dunlin - common
44. Semipalmated Sandpiper – Balranald on 20th
45. Common Sandpiper – a few seen
46. Redshank - common
47. Greenshank – seen on two dates
48. Black-tailed Godwit – 13 at Balranald and 2 at Loch Mor
49. Bar-tailed Godwit – seen on one date
50. Curlew - seen most days and fairly common
51. Whimbrel – heard on 24th
52. Snipe – seen on two dates
53. Great Skua – seen on three dates
54. Arctic Skua – seen on two dates
55. Black-headed Gull – seen every day
56. Common Gull - common
57. Herring Gull - common
58. Lesser Black-backed Gull – a few seen
59. Great Black-backed Gull – regular in small numbers
60. Kittiwake – seen on five dates
61. Common Tern – three dates
62. Arctic Tern – Sound of Barra only
63. Puffin – common on Mingulay, one off Griminish Point
64. Black Guillemot – seen on six dates
65. Guillemot - Sound of Barra and Mingulay
66. Razorbill – seen on two dates
67. Rock Dove - common

68. Collared Dove – three days

69. Cuckoo – 2 juveniles on 24th

70. Short-eared Owl – seen on six dates with a max of at least 5 on 20th

71. Swift – two south at Smerclate on 24th

72. Skylark - common

73. Barn Swallow – seen every day in small numbers

74. Rock Pipit – seen most days

75. Meadow Pipit - common

76. Pied Wagtail – seen most days

77. Hebridean Wren – quite common

78. Hebridean Dunnock – seen on two dates

79. Robin – two dates

80. Wheatear - common

81. Stonechat - common

82. Hebridean Song Thrush – seen on three dates

83. Blackbird – regular

84. Whitethroat – family party seen in South Glendale

85. Sedge Warbler – seen on two dates

86. Grasshopper Warbler – in song in South Glendale

87. Willow Warbler – common in suitable habitat

88. Goldcrest – Loch Eynort only

89. Hooded Crow – seen most days

90. Raven – common

91. Hebridean Starling – very common

92. House Sparrow – common

93. Linnet – fairly common

94. Twite – common

95. Lesser Redpoll – Loch Eynort

96. Greenfinch – seen on four dates

97. Siskin – 3 at Loch Eynort

98. Reed Bunting - Smerclate

99. Corn Bunting – seen on four dates

 

Mammals:

 

Red Deer

Otter

Common Seal

Grey Seal

Field Vole

 

Butterflies and moths:

 

Dark Green Fritillary

Small Tortoiseshell

Green-veined White

Common Blue

Meadow Brown

Silver-Y

 

Selected plant list:

 

Royal Fern

Lesser Meadow-rue

White Water-lily

Long-headed Poppy

Sea Rocket

Wild Pansy

Sea Campion

White Campion

Ragged Robin

Dove’s-foot Crane’s-bill

Common Stork’s-bill

Broom

Tufted Vetch

White Clover

Red Clover

Kidney Vetch

Common Bird’s-foot Trefoil

Marsh Cinquefoil

English Stonecrop

Round-leaved Sundew

Great / Oblong-leaved Sundew

Wild Carrot

Sun Spurge

Bog Pimpernel

Sea-milkwort

Common Centaury

Viper’s-bugloss

Yellow-rattle

Eyebright

Harebell

Wild Thyme

Red Dead-nettle

Ragwort

Butterbur

Sea Aster

Yarrow

Sea Mayweed

Corn Marigold

Oxeye Daisy

Tansy

Lesser Burdock

Common Knapweed

Bog Asphodel

Yellow Iris

Frog Orchid

Lesser Butterfly Orchid

Early Marsh Ocrhid var. coccinea

Hebridean Spotted Orchid

Heath Spotted Orchid

Pyramidal Orchid